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Wheel shopping can be confusing if you're a begginer. There's thousands of options, conflicting advice, and expensive mistakes.
Get it right, and you'll look like a rockstar.
To break down what wheels are best for you, we'll show you exactly how wheel pricing works. Typically, it's 60% manufacturing cost, 30% brand marketing, and 10% shipping.
This builds what folks who sell wheels would call "Tiers." Understanding these tiers is the key to getting the most value.
Our honest take: Tier 3 wheels between $900-$1,600 are the best bet for you. Out of the last decade of doing this, we've found that's where the best value is.
Now that you know how the pricing tiers work, let's talk about your wheel's fitment...
Standard fitment ranges give you more options at better prices, and sometimes even come in at a lower price. Which is great, because then you can put that money towards some better tires!
Just because you can spend $2,500 on a set of wheels doesn't mean you need to. That's what makes MartiniWorks special, we care about you getting the most out of your budget. We aren't a big corporation pushing crappy brands and pretending to be enthusiasts.
These are the sizes that fit most cars. If your car needs these fitments, you're in luck—more options, better prices, and way less headache.
Hondas, Mazdas, and Subarus tend to fit in this category.
For those of you running overfenders, have a bit of an out of the box platform, or just want something more aggressive.
There tends to be less options, and because of that, they'll be higher priced.
This is the size or height of your wheel. Smaller, shorter = sportier. Bigger, taller = more premium look. This is the 18 in the 18x9 in the example below.
The width of your wheel from inside the lip to lip; not the whole wheel. This is the 9 in 18x9.
The lug number (5) and the distance between the lug studs or holes (114.3mm). The distance can be measured in millimeters or inches. The example above has a bolt pattern of 5x114.3.
The distance in mm from the centerline of your wheel to the actual mounting surface. This can be shown a few different ways. Generally it will be a positive (+) or negative (-) number. The example above shows an "ET22" offset, which is the same as +22mm.
After you've decided on price and fitment, let's talk about paint finishes. This is where a lot of people get caught off guard.
Simple rule: more time on paint work, the pricier the wheel.
Single stage saves money, but if and when it chips, you'll see raw metal underneath. This is typically where Tier 4 wheels get a bad rep. That's not always a deal-breaker, but just know what you're getting into.
The clear coat protects your wheel's finish from chips, scratches, and fading. Here's the truth about where it's made:
Brushed wheels look great, but cheaper brushed wheels cut corners. They'll machine the face beautifully, then leave the sides basic silver or dark gray.
Brushing isn't consistent either. The face gets machined perfectly, but the spokes are often finished by hand. Once you notice the difference, you can't unsee it.
Did you leave enough money for tires? Don't get us wrong, we love going all out on wheels. But if you spend all your money on wheels and then get $180 Ironman tires, you're going to hate it for normal driving conditions.
Remember, your wheels are only as good as what you wrap them with. Unless you're building a true show car, spending all your money on wheels and putting that extra cash towards tires can make you happier in the long run.
We sell only brands we feel are authentic to you and true to themselves. We don't pretend that something cheap is as good as something that costs a Mazda Miata, but expensive wheels aren't always the answer.
Always start with your budget, decide if you plan to finance them with Katapult or Affirm, or pay in cash. After that, figure out what size wheels you want to search for.
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