NA Mazda Miata Car Parts

1990 - 1997

NA

The NA Mazda Miata is the 1st generation

The NA runs a 4x100 bolt pattern with a 54.1mm hub bore. That bolt pattern limits your wheel options compared to the 5-lug cars, but there's still a solid selection of lightweight wheels in 4x100. Most NA owners run 14, 15, or 16 inch wheels. 15x7 or 15x8 are the sweet spots for street and track use.

1990-1993 cars got the 1.6L B6ZE making 116 hp. 1994-1997 cars got the 1.8L BP making 128 hp (131 hp for the 1996-1997 cars with OBD-II). The 1.8 has more torque across the board and responds better to bolt-ons. Both engines are reliable and rev-happy, but the 1.8 is the better starting point if you plan to add power. The 1.6 is lighter, though, and some autocrossers prefer that trade-off.

The NA uses double wishbones front and rear, which is great geometry for a car this cheap. The main issue is bump steer. Lowering the car changes the tie rod angle relative to the lower control arm, and you'll get noticeable bump steer past about a 1.5 inch drop without correction. Bump steer spacers or adjustable tie rod ends fix it. Rear camber also goes negative fast when you lower it, so adjustable upper control arms or eccentric bolts are worth budgeting for.

Most people land around 1 to 1.5 inches of drop for a good balance of looks and function. Past that, you're fighting bump steer, CV angle limits, and aggressive negative camber without correction parts. Fender-to-lip setups at 2+ inches of drop need bump steer spacers, adjustable arms, and sometimes extended lower ball joints. The car drives worse at extreme drops unless you throw parts at the geometry problems. For a street or track car, 1 to 1.5 inches keeps everything happy without extra correction hardware.

Some do, some don't. The Torsen viscous-type LSD came on certain trims and packages. Base models got an open diff. The easiest way to check is to jack up the rear, spin one wheel, and see if the other spins the same direction (LSD) or opposite (open). If yours is open, Torsen units from other NA and NB Miatas swap in directly. It's one of the best upgrades you can do for autocross or track days. The difference in corner exit traction is night and day.

On a 15x7 wheel, 205/50R15 is the go-to size with no rubbing on stock fenders and stock ride height. Bump up to a 15x8 and 205/50R15 still works, or you can stretch a 225/45R15 with minor rolling. At stock height, 195/50R15 on the factory 14x6 wheels is the OEM size for reference. Wider than 225 on a 15 inch wheel and you're into fender rolling or pulling territory, especially up front. Every setup depends on offset, ride height, and alignment, so treat these as starting points, not guarantees.

It's one of the best beginner track cars you can buy. Light (around 2,200 lbs), balanced, rear-wheel drive, and cheap to fix when you overcook a corner. The car teaches you more about driving than anything twice its price because there's no power to bail you out of bad technique. Brake fade is the first thing you'll hit at the track. Upgraded pads and fresh fluid go a long way. Cooling can also be marginal on hot days with the stock radiator, especially the 1.6 cars. Budget for a half-size aluminum radiator upgrade if you plan to do more than one or two events a year.